Where to draw the signal from for the sub?
04-13-2010, 08:20 PM
#151
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: St. Paul, MN
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04-13-2010, 08:44 PM
#152
For your amp settings, I highly suggest picking up a voltmeter and setting with a test tone (50Hz is what I used). Use this guide here:SoundDomain.com: How to Set Your Amplifier's Gain Correctly
MAKE SURE you put the setting as high as you will ever use them and volume at 3/4. Max the bass **** and set the gains, this all ensure you do not clip and blow your new sub.
MAKE SURE you put the setting as high as you will ever use them and volume at 3/4. Max the bass **** and set the gains, this all ensure you do not clip and blow your new sub.
04-15-2010, 04:19 PM
#153
Hey guys i cut the wires 8 & 9 but now i dont know what to do. I have 2 rca wires. Do i wire the 8 & 9 to rca wire input for the amp? What do i do for the output? Also what did you guys use for the remote wire? Did your wiring kit come with it? I dont think mine did. Thanks guys.
Last edited by TomieG; 04-15-2010 at 05:17 PM.
04-15-2010, 04:24 PM
#154
Registered User
Step 2...
JL Audio - Car Audio Systems
04-15-2010, 07:12 PM
#155
Hey guys i cut the wires 8 & 9 but now i dont know what to do. I have 2 rca wires. Do i wire the 8 & 9 to rca wire input for the amp? What do i do for the output? Also what did you guys use for the remote wire? Did your wiring kit come with it? I dont think mine did. Thanks guys.
And for the remote, I tapped the woofer turn on signal, wired it to a PAC TR-4 and then connected that to my amp. Prevents popping, and gives you a constant 12v no matter what.
Pretty sure its the opposite. You're supposed to turn everything down/off. You're correct about the 3/4 volume though.
Step 2...
JL Audio - Car Audio Systems
Step 2...
JL Audio - Car Audio Systems
04-15-2010, 07:30 PM
#158
i watched that video on how to set gains and looked at the JL write up, and now im confused.
It says if youre running bridged you have to cut the ohms in half, so since im running a 2ch amp bridged with a 4ohm sub, does that mean my amp is running at 2ohms?
Cause according to the manual, my amp isnt stable below 4ohms when bridged.
And im not sure what to set my voltage to for 1000w rms.
It says if youre running bridged you have to cut the ohms in half, so since im running a 2ch amp bridged with a 4ohm sub, does that mean my amp is running at 2ohms?
Cause according to the manual, my amp isnt stable below 4ohms when bridged.
And im not sure what to set my voltage to for 1000w rms.
04-15-2010, 11:15 PM
#159
TomieG: Is your sub single or dual voice coil?
Check and make sure you haven't hooked them up backwards and make sure you tapped the RCA's properly.
Stoof:
Alright so lemme start with:
Is your sub single/dual 2 ohm or 4 ohm? If dual, how do you plan on wiring it (series or parallel)?
What you should do to find the correct voltage is multiply the watts by the impedance and take the square root.
Ex. 1000 x 2 ohm then sqrt = 44.72 *this is a just an example*
And most high quality amps can take 2 ohms bridged, despite what the manual says. I would suggest for maximum efficiency to buy a monoblock amp (~80-90% D-block instead of the 50-60% from AB)
Check and make sure you haven't hooked them up backwards and make sure you tapped the RCA's properly.
Stoof:
Alright so lemme start with:
Is your sub single/dual 2 ohm or 4 ohm? If dual, how do you plan on wiring it (series or parallel)?
What you should do to find the correct voltage is multiply the watts by the impedance and take the square root.
Ex. 1000 x 2 ohm then sqrt = 44.72 *this is a just an example*
And most high quality amps can take 2 ohms bridged, despite what the manual says. I would suggest for maximum efficiency to buy a monoblock amp (~80-90% D-block instead of the 50-60% from AB)
04-15-2010, 11:26 PM
#160
Ok guys heres the breakdown:
Components: 1 JL 500/1v2 amp, 1 JL 10w6
Heres the wiring kit i used.
So i ran the power & negative and Bass **** to trunk. Grounded negative and had fuse in power cable. I tapped wires 8 & 9 before they go into the stock amp and wired them to an rca along with the wires going back into the stock harness. I wired (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) then plugged that into the "input" on the JL amp.
For the subs i had 12 gauge wire running from the JL amp to the subs.
Now my stock subs dont work and my JL sub wont work. Amp powers up though. HELP!
Components: 1 JL 500/1v2 amp, 1 JL 10w6
Heres the wiring kit i used.
So i ran the power & negative and Bass **** to trunk. Grounded negative and had fuse in power cable. I tapped wires 8 & 9 before they go into the stock amp and wired them to an rca along with the wires going back into the stock harness. I wired (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) then plugged that into the "input" on the JL amp.
For the subs i had 12 gauge wire running from the JL amp to the subs.
Now my stock subs dont work and my JL sub wont work. Amp powers up though. HELP!
04-16-2010, 12:29 AM
#161
Registered User
I'm pretty sure you want to set your gain devoid of other confounding factors and EQ. That's why you turn everything off. I did it JL Audio's recommended way and have no clipping, even at volume maxed out.
04-16-2010, 12:32 AM
#162
Registered User
So i ran the power & negative and Bass **** to trunk. Grounded negative and had fuse in power cable. I tapped wires 8 & 9 before they go into the stock amp and wired them to an rca along with the wires going back into the stock harness. I wired (+) to (+) and (-) to (-) then plugged that into the "input" on the JL amp.
For the subs i had 12 gauge wire running from the JL amp to the subs.
Now my stock subs dont work and my JL sub wont work. Amp powers up though. HELP!
For the subs i had 12 gauge wire running from the JL amp to the subs.
Now my stock subs dont work and my JL sub wont work. Amp powers up though. HELP!
04-16-2010, 03:17 AM
#163
TomieG: Is your sub single or dual voice coil?
Check and make sure you haven't hooked them up backwards and make sure you tapped the RCA's properly.
Stoof:
Alright so lemme start with:
Is your sub single/dual 2 ohm or 4 ohm? If dual, how do you plan on wiring it (series or parallel)?
What you should do to find the correct voltage is multiply the watts by the impedance and take the square root.
Ex. 1000 x 2 ohm then sqrt = 44.72 *this is a just an example*
And most high quality amps can take 2 ohms bridged, despite what the manual says. I would suggest for maximum efficiency to buy a monoblock amp (~80-90% D-block instead of the 50-60% from AB)
Check and make sure you haven't hooked them up backwards and make sure you tapped the RCA's properly.
Stoof:
Alright so lemme start with:
Is your sub single/dual 2 ohm or 4 ohm? If dual, how do you plan on wiring it (series or parallel)?
What you should do to find the correct voltage is multiply the watts by the impedance and take the square root.
Ex. 1000 x 2 ohm then sqrt = 44.72 *this is a just an example*
And most high quality amps can take 2 ohms bridged, despite what the manual says. I would suggest for maximum efficiency to buy a monoblock amp (~80-90% D-block instead of the 50-60% from AB)
My amp puts out 1000w @ 4ohms bridged. With the bass boost off and gain 100% i only get like 39v. Also, thats with the HU bass 100%, bass **** 100%, and volume 75%.
IDK it sounds good but for 1000w RMS, it just doesnt seem like its hitting THAT hard.
Is there a way i can test how many watts my amp is really putting out?
haha i used to be really good at this stuff, i got an A+ in DC Electrical Circuits in college, i just forgot most of it hhaa
04-16-2010, 06:53 AM
#164
Your wiring it series then. And you should have around 63 v of AC current, so I'm not sure what's up with that.
You can get a rough idea of the RMS being put out if you know the voltage your car runs at with the amp at full tilt, and to get that most efficiently, I suggest a stinger voltmeter.
But my best suggestion would be getting a monoblock amp if you want that sub to hit as hard as it can. Beacuse if you are running a class A/B Amplifier, you are losing a ton of power! For a 1000 watts @ 1 ohm or so I suggest this amp:Hifonics BXi1210D - Monoblock Car Amplifier, Power Amp - Sonic Electronix Will do right around 1000 with efficiency and 13v (accounting for drops).
You can get a rough idea of the RMS being put out if you know the voltage your car runs at with the amp at full tilt, and to get that most efficiently, I suggest a stinger voltmeter.
But my best suggestion would be getting a monoblock amp if you want that sub to hit as hard as it can. Beacuse if you are running a class A/B Amplifier, you are losing a ton of power! For a 1000 watts @ 1 ohm or so I suggest this amp:Hifonics BXi1210D - Monoblock Car Amplifier, Power Amp - Sonic Electronix Will do right around 1000 with efficiency and 13v (accounting for drops).