dillyyo

Was wondering if anyone has personally or can direct me to someplace that has replaced the door speakers in our car? I want to know actual mounting depth and sizes as I need to know so I can plan on what system I will be putting in for my front stage. I prefer not to go through the small labor of taking my door panels off and possibly breaking clips. I am most interested in the 3.25 mid range in the upper door as I would like to fit a Dynaudio, DLS or Morel mid range in that place. Also, if someone knows whether the speakers are mounted on the door or if they are actually in the door panel in mounted enclosures? Thanks.

dillyyo

Come on! No one has taken their panel off or had their speakers upgraded at a shop?!?! It's way to cold here and I need some love!

raptorius

iTrader: (1)

I think most people are still waiting for the first guinea pig.

Kream

Mine is off, but i didn't get the premium.

MaxToTheG37

iTrader: (3)

I would LOVEEE to slap aftermarkets all around... but i think that it would be an install nightmare... replacing 11 speakers and slammin an amp on them...that would sound so good and be extremely loud...but then you would need one of those Operating systems that lets you keep your OEM HU. (cleansweep, 3sixty, carportal)

dillyyo ...mr expert...what is your opinion on this?

shumby

iTrader: (3)

dillyyo ...mr expert...what is your opinion on this?


lol

dillyyo

I personally will not replace the rear side and rear deck speakers. No processing device (360, cleansweep etc)is required for signal summing or flattening, but I will be getting an MS8 for other reasons that I would like. Take into account that one is not needed for the Bose equipped cars, but maybe for the stock cars as the HU might be doing some processing.

At the very least I will be getting
1 JL 12W7 or 12W6 = ~$500
1 3-way component set (DLS, Dynaudio or Morels) = ~1400
1 MS* when it comes out = 800
1 mono amp = ?? depends on what I choose
1 Zapco 6 ch amp = already have ~1000

If possible to fit, another midrange for the center channel = ~200

Then add in material for making my amp rack and sub enclosure, wiring, fuse kit and maybe some monkeys to actually run the wiring and maybe drop the speakers in and I plan on dropping about 5 grand. But when all is said and done, short of highly modifying the interior, this will be one stealth kick *** system that will be able to push some serious Db levels and sound tight as hell. Can't wait till I get started.

dillyyo

Oh that sucks! I was hoping since you already had your system replaced you could tell me what the physical dimensions were of the speakers, but I think your car has different size speakers throughout.

fcarpio

I know for a fact that the Morel Elate, Dynaudio Esotecs and the DLS Iridium will fit in the midrange location. I would also consider the Hybids 3 way (3" mid).

fcarpio

I could sell you my 2 x 10 W6's with a custom G37 box. I had them on my 2007 G35 for about one month and then I got me the G37 and have not hooked them up since. I may take some pictures this weekend and put it on ebay.

dillyyo

yeah, I was considering the Morels, but only the Supremo 2-ways with the 9 in midwoofer, since the tweeter can play so low, but decided against it since reliability concerns under power. I personally wouldn't go with the Elates because the midbass has such a low Qts and I have heard from many reliable sources that it lacks midbass punch, which you get with a low Qts. I like the Dynaudios, but my concern is the tweeter in the sail panel and whether it will fit with the tweeter casing. THe Iridiums have it so you can take the tweeter out of the casing, so fitting should be no problem what so ever. DLS and Dynas kick serious *** and I guess it depends on which I get a better deal on. Haven't personally heard Buwalda's Hybrids, but judging from his past history in competing and what I have heard, they probably sound really good.

Hey, if you are able to hook up a fellow G'er with your DLS discount source, it would be greatly appreciated. Might just need the raw drivers as I am most likely going active with my front stage. Get back at me please.

dillyyo

I was contemplating those subs, but I must confess, I LOVE my original W3's that I have used last. beautiful balance with awesome accuracy. The depth of the W6 causes a problem with me putting it in the spare wheel well. I would either have to put it as you have it or facing the rear seats with a box taking up that area. Or I would have to build a false floor thats raised higher than what we have stock!! I need to be able to put golf clubs atleast and don't think I want to go with the box setup you have. The W3's are shallow enough and I can probably fit two on the floor with my amps racked and still keep stock floor height. Thanks though.

quart

Someone asked this on another forum site and I gave my .02. While not an expert and I have yet to remove the door panels on my car, the 10-incher in the Premium systems doors is probably very thin. Similar to the 10-inch from the first generation M45 (photos below).



That was a very anemic sounding woofer. Also if you added an aftermarket sub to the doors, besides being thin mount like the Pioneer, EarthQuake, or other subs that are less than 3-inches deep. Another consideration is dampening the doors.... My doors rattle as it is with the stock system, add an aftermarket woofer, with aftermarket power and you are asking for trouble.
In my own car, I am planning on adding a sub in the spare-tire well and even placing capacitors on my door speakers to attenuate the bass there so to elimenate any rattle. (Capacitors on speakers are like bass blockers and cut out the lowest frequencies).

Lou@Amplified

iTrader: (26)

Which zapco 6 channel do you have. Im running the Zapco 6 channel DC REF. You can control the frequency to control you mid bass output as im doing with my elate 9. Let me know if you need help setting it up. I'll post pictures once im done with my free air image dynamics setup.

dillyyo

I have an older AG650. As internal crossovers and such, so that wont be an issue. I know what you mean about adjusting the frequency curves and getting more midbass response out of the Elates, but trying to squeeze to much out of something that isn't inherently there, alot of time leads to manufacturing of other problems. Thats not to say it wouldn't work, just that I like to plan ahead and not have problems later on. Car acoustics in general suck and I'd rather start of with what I want and manipulate as little as possible, rather than input alot of correction.

The only DSP I will use in my car will be the MS-8 if and when it comes out. If it doesn't, it will be good old 1/3 octave EQ's and tweeking with crossovers as I am not willing to adjust physical locations of speakers.