Technically, it is getting power from the alternator and the battery, but neither of these is going to make a huge difference unless you are looking for an excuse to spend money on custom components. A much easier way to do it is to install a stiffening capacitor before the amp so it can supply the fast transient voltage needed during heavy base.

 

very true!!! but also an optima battery has 800 cranking amps as the factory battery has like 300 sumthin... not sure, but one day u just might forget to turn something off and that optima battery just might save ones butt one day.. i say this bc i've had this happen to me and it sucked!@

 

True, but a good amplifier should have enough capacitance built in to handle the load. If you have a good match between the car, amplifiers, and speakers you should not need an aftermarket battery, an alternator or a cap.

That is my story, and I am sticking to it.

 

The simple way to tell it to turn your system on with your lights on at night and play it at your normal level. If your lights dim get a CAP. A new battery might be overkill plus the alternator still needs to change it.

 

My accord had 2 JL12w7 w/ a Precision Power 1600Watt amp, a Cap and a Optima Yellow top battery and everythime the bass hit the light would dim. (The ground was to the chasis of the car) I regrounded it to the negative of the battery, and the light stopped dimming. Better power flow with the proper grounding.

Was thinking about putting one of those subs in my G. Would be nice to have them both in there, but those two plus the amp barely fit in my accord sedan.

 

What is the head converter supposed to do???