dillyyo

If you are refering to the MD 142's, this is why I am going with the DLS IR 3's, which have a removable grill. AFAIK, the Dyn's grills cannot be removed, although I hope to be able to with the 102's as I have heard great things about the tweet.

dillyyo

Screw the passive system and just go all active. Get the 182's up front along with whatever mids and tweets will work. Unless your going with a true multi channel processor (MS-8 anayone?!?!) for go the center channel. If you are going multi channel then switch with whatever mid range your using in the doors. Dome might be your only choice but maybe a Legatia 3 will fit in there. HU will not drive any speaker as its a low level signal.

dillyyo

In defense of the 24 bit DAC, it can and sometimes does matter when you are competing or listening to your stereo with the car off. Of course with an automotive environment, there are so many other critical factors that need to be resolved, that hold much higher criticality when trying to obtain that awesome in car audio sound.

Brent72

What does snow sound like?

dannbla

LOL I meant like when you drive in the snow the road noise from that,
is there road noise from snow
I'm in L.A. it dosn't snow here so I don't know.

dannbla

All that stuff I said and thats the only one you found to comment on

zninja

Hello to all,

I have a couple of question maybe someone could help?

1. Can you disconnect all the bose amps and still maintain the blue tooth?
2. Which would be the best way to upgrade, I want to keep all the functionality of the factory. But all the benefit from aftermarket sound

3. Do you lose any functionality by bypassing the amps in the rear?

4. Would it be better to convert the output of the bose amps to line level and then go to my own amplifiers?
5. Would it be better to run the amps directly from the head unit? Do you lose any function by doing this?

6. What are all the speaker sizes for the G37 Front, Side and Back
7. What speaker do you recommend and what amps?

8. Anyone have a wire map?

Thank you for any help you can provide. Information is the key to a successful job. Again thank you

regards,
Zninja

dillyyo

BT has nothing to do with the amps. To keep 100% functionality of the car and A/V in tact, yet get all of the benefits of aftermarket components, you keep the OEM head unit, dump the speakers and the amps. If you don't want to replace or omit the rear speakers then you can keep those speakers connected to the bose amps and just disconnect all inputs/outputs to the front speakers. You then use the inputs for the front speakers to send a signal to your aftermarket stuff and set up as any other aftermarket system would be set up.

I recommend that you go into shops and cars and listen to speakers in various setups, that are within your budget. Find the speakers that YOU like and other equipment that you can afford. Car stereo installs are 10% equipment and 90% install. If you are going with OEm loactions for speakers then that ratio is a little more even.

zninja

Dillyo,

Thanks for the time in responding, I do appreciate it. Have you upgraded a system in a G37 before? Do you have a schematic for the wiring? I have been upgrading soud systems since 16. But I dont want to hack this car apart. I would like to surgically install a new system. That is why I am asking the questions. In terms of the front speakers, do you have to remove the door panels to get at them? thanks again Z

Kream

Done and done! I need to get rid of the sub box and find something that doesnt move around when i take hard turns.

dillyyo

Haven't done it to the 37 yet, but its pretty straight forward. Door panels need to be taken of to access the front speakers. Just like any other install, size of speakers and depth determine whether baffles have to be made etc. If you are wanting to install an after market HU, then I don't think there are any premade install kits available, but I would recommend keeping OEM HU as the Bose unit is a flat low level signal that is pretty clean and keeps all of the A/V functionality of the car, intact.

You should be able to just take the 4 signals coming from the HU and solder RCA's onto the wires and have RCA inputs for any amp, DSP or other audio unit. No need for Hi-low converters, or signal summing/flattening devices. Everything after the RCA's is just like a regular car install you have been doing since the age of 16, accept with more possibilities as far as pre made speaker enclosure sizes. I.E. I am dropping a set of Dynaudio MW182 which have the ability to extend down to a true 25Hz output. Although I will be cutting them off at 55 Hz or so and having my subs play down from there. Lots of possibilities with this car, while keeping a stealth system!

zninja

Hey Dillyyo,

Man thank you!!!! for taking the time. I really appreciate the willingness for people to give so much of their time. especially to others. Did you do anything for the Center? I was able to get the whole cars schematic but all it shows is one amp to all the spks and another amp to the sub.


thanks again
cliff

dillyyo

First the 4 channels feed into the main bose amp and then 2 signals from the main amp feed a smaller amp which pushes the rear deck woofers. Whether these two signals feeding the small amp are flat or EQ'd, i don't know. This is why i reccomend tapping the signals before they go into any of the amps. There is no real need for a center channel unless you are running some type of processor that will deliver surround sound that will do channel steering etc. One such unit coming out is the JBL MS-8. If this unit is all its cracked up to be, I will be setting up my center channel with same DLS IR3 midrange that I will use in the upper doors. The dash enclosure is only made for a 3.25, so your options are probably limited to a dome mid, but if one was willing and was able to stuff a bigger center channel speaker, I would. Something that would play a little lower as the domes really only play, with any type of loudness, around 450-500 and up.

zninja

Dillyyo,

Gotcha, very good information. thx

KahnQuistador

Good news. The grills can be removed from the Dynaudio MD 142 mids. That means installation should work.

Looks like Dyn's front and back. Money well spent since the Iridiums don't have the power rating I want.

As my employer would say "OooooRah"!