Oil analysis on Eneos
07-10-2009, 05:58 PM
#1
Oil analysis on Eneos
Image attached.
Comments:
Universal averages show normal wear for the Nissan VQ37 engine after 5,000 miles of oil use. Your 5W/30 oil was in use just 3,750 miles and all wear metals read at or below averages. That is a great indication of normally wearing parts at 25,000 miles. Sodium at 58 ppm could be additive in this oil rather than from coolant especially since no potassium was present. Send us a virgin oil and we'll test it (no charge) to find out for sure. Low silicon & insolubles show normal air and oil filtration. No gas was present in this sample. Try 5,000 miles. Wear should look great.
Some of the numbers are somewhat higher than the universal average. Not sure what to make of it
......what do you guys think?
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Comments:
Universal averages show normal wear for the Nissan VQ37 engine after 5,000 miles of oil use. Your 5W/30 oil was in use just 3,750 miles and all wear metals read at or below averages. That is a great indication of normally wearing parts at 25,000 miles. Sodium at 58 ppm could be additive in this oil rather than from coolant especially since no potassium was present. Send us a virgin oil and we'll test it (no charge) to find out for sure. Low silicon & insolubles show normal air and oil filtration. No gas was present in this sample. Try 5,000 miles. Wear should look great.
Some of the numbers are somewhat higher than the universal average. Not sure what to make of it
......what do you guys think?__________________
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07-10-2009, 06:05 PM
#2
As mentioned, Sodium is a common additive to oil.
Looks like your wear is pretty good. The viscosity is on the low side, but still in the acceptable range.
How would you describe your driving habits?
PM me if you want to see UOA of some other oils.
Looks like your wear is pretty good. The viscosity is on the low side, but still in the acceptable range.
How would you describe your driving habits?
PM me if you want to see UOA of some other oils.
07-10-2009, 08:17 PM
#3
Thanks Mike.
My commute is mostly freeway. Usually cruising. Streets, usually pretty laid back. Accel hard on when I'm by myself sometimes.
I'm interested in the other UOAs, do you have them to post or is it easier to send through email?
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My commute is mostly freeway. Usually cruising. Streets, usually pretty laid back. Accel hard on when I'm by myself sometimes.
I'm interested in the other UOAs, do you have them to post or is it easier to send through email?
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07-10-2009, 09:01 PM
#4
This is my UOA for my CR.
Oil goes as follows:
Factory fill
Valvoline 5w30
Valvoline 5w30
Valvoline 5w30
Motul 8100
Motul 300V
Viscosity drops from shear (litterally the lubricant molecules being cut apart at high temperature). Motul 300V is a full synthetic, ester base, and advertise no shear. The UOA is consistent with that, as the viscosity is at the very top of the acceptable range.
Also, note the excessive amount of lubricant in it (Moly and Magnesium).
This was a 5500 mile interval, with multiple track days, extended freeway pulls, and a few canyon runs. I redline daily. Usually multiple times, and I have no problem sitting at 6000+ rpm for extended periods.
I ran a longer interval on the 8100 on the basis that it was a higher quality oil, but it actually didn't last much longer than a regular oil. The 5000 mile interval on the 8100 was based on the built in computer's recommendation for an oil change. The 5500 mile interval on the 300V was changed when the onboard computer said it still had a good 40% life left. As you can see, the shot intervals on the regular oil still had more wear than the 8100. The 300V still has tons of life left, but I will continue to change at 5000 mile intervals.
Oil goes as follows:
Factory fill
Valvoline 5w30
Valvoline 5w30
Valvoline 5w30
Motul 8100
Motul 300V
Viscosity drops from shear (litterally the lubricant molecules being cut apart at high temperature). Motul 300V is a full synthetic, ester base, and advertise no shear. The UOA is consistent with that, as the viscosity is at the very top of the acceptable range.
Also, note the excessive amount of lubricant in it (Moly and Magnesium).
This was a 5500 mile interval, with multiple track days, extended freeway pulls, and a few canyon runs. I redline daily. Usually multiple times, and I have no problem sitting at 6000+ rpm for extended periods.
I ran a longer interval on the 8100 on the basis that it was a higher quality oil, but it actually didn't last much longer than a regular oil. The 5000 mile interval on the 8100 was based on the built in computer's recommendation for an oil change. The 5500 mile interval on the 300V was changed when the onboard computer said it still had a good 40% life left. As you can see, the shot intervals on the regular oil still had more wear than the 8100. The 300V still has tons of life left, but I will continue to change at 5000 mile intervals.
Last edited by Mike; 07-10-2009 at 09:06 PM.
07-13-2009, 07:01 PM
#5
What do you think about extending the interval for synthetic but keeping the same filter. How long will the nissan filter last?
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07-13-2009, 07:48 PM
#6
Well, we need some more information here.
1. Which Eneos are you using?
2. You need to get a TBN/TAN test done on your next sample. (This basically tests how basic/acidic your oil is; oil is basic so that it can neutralize acids created as a byproduct of combustion)
3. Your abrasives reading isn't bad, but we need to make sure it doesn't get too high.
If you run an extended interval, you can always change the filter only partway through the interval; there's no cheap way to tell how much life the filter REALLY has.
Try the 5000 they recommended, but pay for the TBN testing. That'll let you really get a good idea of how much life the oil has left.
Give me a call if you have more questions...
1. Which Eneos are you using?
2. You need to get a TBN/TAN test done on your next sample. (This basically tests how basic/acidic your oil is; oil is basic so that it can neutralize acids created as a byproduct of combustion)
3. Your abrasives reading isn't bad, but we need to make sure it doesn't get too high.
If you run an extended interval, you can always change the filter only partway through the interval; there's no cheap way to tell how much life the filter REALLY has.
Try the 5000 they recommended, but pay for the TBN testing. That'll let you really get a good idea of how much life the oil has left.
Give me a call if you have more questions...
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11-24-2009, 02:21 AM
#13
Will look to do another UOA when I change the oil this week, hopefully.
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11-24-2009, 12:58 PM
#15
I didn't send in the virgin either. But if I have 2 more bottles left, I will send in both. This oil change will have about 4000mi on it. My first was done for more of a baseline at around 3750 with mostly conservative driving. This one had some harder runs and the color is a little dark already.
I'm still a little timid to go 8500mi
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I'm still a little timid to go 8500mi
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