G37 Subs And Amp Wire Hookup
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G37 Subs And Amp Wire Hookup
has anyone with a g37 put subs and a amp in there car yet if so how did you hook up the converter box and 2 were please HELP can somone please give me step by step instructions or at least a color code
#3
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we really need a DIY
that thread is really confusing
some say to tap into wires 8 & 9 on B43 Woofer amp
then some say that's not the one to tap into..
some have said to tap into wires 23 thru 26 on connector B41 Bose amp
it's really confusing..only thing everyone seems to agree on is to tap the remote power to wire #3 on the B43 connector woofer amp
that thread is really confusing
some say to tap into wires 8 & 9 on B43 Woofer amp
then some say that's not the one to tap into..
some have said to tap into wires 23 thru 26 on connector B41 Bose amp
it's really confusing..only thing everyone seems to agree on is to tap the remote power to wire #3 on the B43 connector woofer amp
Last edited by ]\[ /-\ ]\/[; 09-02-2008 at 10:08 PM.
#4
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If it is just subs and you are using an amp that has a hi/lo converter in it, like a JL Audio 500/1, the easiest way is to use the number 8 and 9 wires from the B43 connector. The signal is already crossed over so you don't need to have your amp do it. The less processing you have the cleaner the sound.
If you are going to use an external hi/lo converter you will be using the 23 -26 wires on the B41 connector. But then you have more components to hook up and more chance of noise getting in. Plus the price of a hi/lo converter and an amp is about the same if not more than a JL 500/1.
Essentially, if you want to make it easy on yourself use B43 and wires 8 and 9. 8 is positive and 9 is negative. Tap off those two wires to an RCA and get an RCA splitter. So that you can plug in your right and left into the amp. That way you still have the full stock system but add the low end which the car really needs.
I know everybody and there brother has a better, faster, more complex way to do it, but this is the easiest and it works.
Hope this helps
If you are going to use an external hi/lo converter you will be using the 23 -26 wires on the B41 connector. But then you have more components to hook up and more chance of noise getting in. Plus the price of a hi/lo converter and an amp is about the same if not more than a JL 500/1.
Essentially, if you want to make it easy on yourself use B43 and wires 8 and 9. 8 is positive and 9 is negative. Tap off those two wires to an RCA and get an RCA splitter. So that you can plug in your right and left into the amp. That way you still have the full stock system but add the low end which the car really needs.
I know everybody and there brother has a better, faster, more complex way to do it, but this is the easiest and it works.
Hope this helps
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Preet (04-24-2022)
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still so confused in think im just gonna spliz into my rear door speakers i did this on my old truck and it worked awesome this stock amp hookup and these connectors and wires and numbers is just a headache.....
im gonna try the door speakers today and will post back how it worked out and steps to follow to make it happen
im gonna try the door speakers today and will post back how it worked out and steps to follow to make it happen
#6
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If it is just subs and you are using an amp that has a hi/lo converter in it, like a JL Audio 500/1, the easiest way is to use the number 8 and 9 wires from the B43 connector. The signal is already crossed over so you don't need to have your amp do it. The less processing you have the cleaner the sound.
Essentially, if you want to make it easy on yourself use B43 and wires 8 and 9. 8 is positive and 9 is negative. Tap off those two wires to an RCA and get an RCA splitter. So that you can plug in your right and left into the amp. That way you still have the full stock system but add the low end which the car really needs.
Essentially, if you want to make it easy on yourself use B43 and wires 8 and 9. 8 is positive and 9 is negative. Tap off those two wires to an RCA and get an RCA splitter. So that you can plug in your right and left into the amp. That way you still have the full stock system but add the low end which the car really needs.
this cleared up things greatly
I'll give this a try and hopefully have plenty of pics for a DIY.
I'm going with JL 500/1v2 & JL W6V2
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allrite still dont understand this connector talk let me explain what i have and maybe somone can tell me what im missing and what i need and were i should put wht wires
2 10 inch alpine type s
alpine amp
truck loc PAC converter
???????
2 10 inch alpine type s
alpine amp
truck loc PAC converter
???????
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#8
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did this last weekend...thanks to finagle and dieseldoug for all the help.
here's a quick DIY i made for a fellow G-rider
it's actually pretty easy to do...
i picked up some "Quick connects" at i think walmart for like $3-$4...makes for easy splicing..those woofer amp wires are really thin
anyway...
-remove trunk mat and carpet
-remove spare tire
-lower ur rear seat
-in the middle of the trunk towards the back where u just lowered ur rear seat u'll see carpet held down by a plastic piece..that plastic piece is held down by some plastic screws that just pop out with a flat head screwdriver...there's five of them
-then slide that piece out
-remove the big plastic piece on the left side..there's one screw holding it down..that screw is located closest to u if u're standing out side the car..lil 10mm i think
-once that big plastic piece is removed u'll see the bose amps..one on top the other..the lil amp on top is the one u want
-use quick connects and splice ur RCA cut ends (-) to wire #9 and (+) cut end of ur RCA to wire #8.
u can use a single RCA going to ur woofer amp but then u'll need a y-splitter to connect to ur LEFT & RIGHT on ur amp.
Or u can use a dual RCA and just splice the 2 negatives together and the 2 positives together.
-use another quick connect to splice into wire # 3 for remote power
i found it easier to unplug that B43 connector and cutting down some of that black sleeve on it..gives more room to get to those thin wires..to remove that connector, there's a clip u have press to release the connector..the clip is on the bottom..kinda hard to reach..i pressed it with one hand and use a flat head screw driveer to push the connector apart
those are the only wires u'll need to splice to from the woofer amp connector B43.
should look like this diagram..got this pic off JLaudio.com..i am using a JL 500/1
thats basicaly it...run ur power wire from ur battery..i suggest at least 20ft..i feel 20ft is barely enough..u can use a ground in the trunk under those plastic things...and then hook up ur speaker wires from ur amp to ur sub
u can use this great DIY on g35driver as well..that's exactly how i ran my power from the battery..i made a lil snip on the rubber grommet with a pair of scissors and fed the power cable thru it
http://g35driver.com/forums/audio-vi...g35-coupe.html
again, Big thanks to dieseldoug and finagle...they helped me alot...also to that DIY on driver
here's a quick DIY i made for a fellow G-rider
it's actually pretty easy to do...
i picked up some "Quick connects" at i think walmart for like $3-$4...makes for easy splicing..those woofer amp wires are really thin
anyway...
-remove trunk mat and carpet
-remove spare tire
-lower ur rear seat
-in the middle of the trunk towards the back where u just lowered ur rear seat u'll see carpet held down by a plastic piece..that plastic piece is held down by some plastic screws that just pop out with a flat head screwdriver...there's five of them
-then slide that piece out
-remove the big plastic piece on the left side..there's one screw holding it down..that screw is located closest to u if u're standing out side the car..lil 10mm i think
-once that big plastic piece is removed u'll see the bose amps..one on top the other..the lil amp on top is the one u want
-use quick connects and splice ur RCA cut ends (-) to wire #9 and (+) cut end of ur RCA to wire #8.
u can use a single RCA going to ur woofer amp but then u'll need a y-splitter to connect to ur LEFT & RIGHT on ur amp.
Or u can use a dual RCA and just splice the 2 negatives together and the 2 positives together.
-use another quick connect to splice into wire # 3 for remote power
i found it easier to unplug that B43 connector and cutting down some of that black sleeve on it..gives more room to get to those thin wires..to remove that connector, there's a clip u have press to release the connector..the clip is on the bottom..kinda hard to reach..i pressed it with one hand and use a flat head screw driveer to push the connector apart
those are the only wires u'll need to splice to from the woofer amp connector B43.
should look like this diagram..got this pic off JLaudio.com..i am using a JL 500/1
thats basicaly it...run ur power wire from ur battery..i suggest at least 20ft..i feel 20ft is barely enough..u can use a ground in the trunk under those plastic things...and then hook up ur speaker wires from ur amp to ur sub
u can use this great DIY on g35driver as well..that's exactly how i ran my power from the battery..i made a lil snip on the rubber grommet with a pair of scissors and fed the power cable thru it
http://g35driver.com/forums/audio-vi...g35-coupe.html
again, Big thanks to dieseldoug and finagle...they helped me alot...also to that DIY on driver
#12
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Hate to dig this up...but I did this and my remote doesn't look like it's working.
I get 12v out of the wire that i tapped into, but when i plug it into my amp it drops to 5v. Any idea if it's my amp or another issue?
If i hook the remote wire directly to the power amp turns on and everything works fine.
Any ideas?
I get 12v out of the wire that i tapped into, but when i plug it into my amp it drops to 5v. Any idea if it's my amp or another issue?
If i hook the remote wire directly to the power amp turns on and everything works fine.
Any ideas?
#13
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iTrader: (1)
Just to follow up for anyone that meets what I met.
After not getting enough power to turn on the amp, I first tried a relay (so the amp wouldn't be on all the time).
Turns out it didn't enough power to switch the relay. Then I looked up other wires I could use. I used #20 from another harness and that would kill all the speakers in the car.
I settled on using a fuse tap in the fuse box (but the drivers left foot) and plugged it into the 12v accessories fuse (cig lighters, etc) worked like a charm. I would have much rather have done this than splice a wire, so just putting this out there as another option for people.
After not getting enough power to turn on the amp, I first tried a relay (so the amp wouldn't be on all the time).
Turns out it didn't enough power to switch the relay. Then I looked up other wires I could use. I used #20 from another harness and that would kill all the speakers in the car.
I settled on using a fuse tap in the fuse box (but the drivers left foot) and plugged it into the 12v accessories fuse (cig lighters, etc) worked like a charm. I would have much rather have done this than splice a wire, so just putting this out there as another option for people.
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alantoo (09-12-2018)
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