Ester Oil?

[Gamedog]

^ That's actually normal for the Sport brakes from what I've heard at least... Kind of annoying though... But yeah I think imma stop by and test drive a 7AT just for sheits and giggles....

[chasemyaccord]

Originally Posted by Gamedog

^ That's actually normal for the Sport brakes from what I've heard at least... Kind of annoying though... But yeah I think imma stop by and test drive a 7AT just for sheits and giggles....

pick a day and i'll go the same time hahha.

[Mike]

Pfft. You 2 just want to get spanked by the new 7AT

[BJ's Girlfriend]

I think I am getting even more confused on what oil to use. I once asked and got a lot of different responses on what to use. It seems that it really doesn't matter a whole bunch as long as it is synthetic and a good brand. Someone told me a few months ago that synthetic oil breaks down so much faster. Is that true?

[Mike]

the whole point of a synthetic is to better protect your engine. A synthetic should always perform better than a non-synthetic.

[htownboy]

Originally Posted by notalk

American Petroleum Institiute Oil Service Ratings: "The latest service category rating for gasoline engines is "SM", introduced in November 2004 for 2005 and newer engines. SM-rated oils along with the previous "SL" (2001) and "SJ" (1997) ratings, are backwards compatible and can be safely used in older engines with exceptions (see update below). But the opposite is not true. Older obsolete service classifications (SH, SG, SF, etc.) may not meet OEM lubrication requirements for newer engines. Likewise, API SL oils should not be used in 2005 and later vehicles, and SJ oils should not be used in 2001 and newer vehicles."

Due to possibility of premature catalytic converter failure...
Let me see; what is more important, much greater lubrication or maybe I may clog a converter in the life of my engine... It's a NO BRAINER!

I'll buy the converters, give me that extra lubrication!

[notalk]

Originally Posted by htownboy

Due to possibility of premature catalytic converter failure...
Let me see; what is more important, much greater lubrication or maybe I may clog a converter in the life of my engine... It's a NO BRAINER!

I'll buy the converters, give me that extra lubrication!

Okay, one more time:

"Older obsolete service classifications (SH, SG, SF, etc.) may not meet OEM lubrication requirements for newer engines. Likewise, API SL oils should not be used in 2005 and later vehicles, and SJ oils should not be used in 2001 and newer vehicles."

As you might say, let me see, believe the hometownboy about oil lubrication properties or believe the American Petroleum Institute. It's a NO BRAINER!

Bottom line, the owner's manual clearly requires use of SM oils.

[htownboy]

Originally Posted by notalk

Okay, one more time:

"Older obsolete service classifications (SH, SG, SF, etc.) may not meet OEM lubrication requirements for newer engines. Likewise, API SL oils should not be used in 2005 and later vehicles, and SJ oils should not be used in 2001 and newer vehicles."

As you might say, let me see, believe the hometownboy about oil lubrication properties or believe the American Petroleum Institute. It's a NO BRAINER!

Bottom line, the owner's manual clearly requires use of SM oils.

Go back and read my original post where Royal Purple defends their use and their warranty of using SL over SM... Go ahead and use whatever you want, the lubrication is better, and yes, there is some concern for premature cat converter failure. I still will choose the far superior lube over the lower one, screw the converters! Your talking like the API is GOD; you bow to that GOD if you want; my engine will get far more superior lubrication than yours and if the converters fail, Royal Purple will pay for that; it comes with written warranty.

[tx_g37]

I changed too ester oil because of the valve noise. The noise went away after the ECM reprogramming and oil change. My question is, can I go back to regular oil?

[Heat]

Once you go synthetic, you cant go back to conventional.

[tx_g37]

The rep @ the dealer said that Ester wasnt Synthetic, he said that the only difference with Ester was that it had Ester particles. It shouldnt even be named Ester.

[Mike]

You can go back to regular oil from synthetic anytime, but you may get the noise back.

If anyone can prove otherwise, I'd love to know for sure

[andromeda]

Originally Posted by mike@riverside

You can go back to regular oil from synthetic anytime, but you may get the noise back.

If anyone can prove otherwise, I'd love to know for sure

So Mike since you work @Infiniti, is this oil used by the dealers (easter) full syntetic or not?

Infiniti wants this ester but I'm more tempted to go with Motul 300V Synthetic Racing Oil - 5W30 Power Racing..

Please elaborate.

Thx,
A

[kool_yaar]

MIKE: or others with info
Ok Motul V300 is a bit too much for me, am currently running RP and pretty happy, but do you think that switch to Motul 8100 5w30 would be an upgrade and better then RP protection wise, basically is 8100 a full synthetic Class IV or III, i drive SPIRITED at times but not all the time.

Thanks

[Mike]

Originally Posted by andromeda

So Mike since you work @Infiniti, is this oil used by the dealers (easter) full syntetic or not?

Infiniti wants this ester but I'm more tempted to go with Motul 300V Synthetic Racing Oil - 5W30 Power Racing..

Please elaborate.

Thx,
A

I just took a look at the bottle the Ester oil come in. It is NOT a bulk oil; they come in 1 qt bottles. The bottle itself has a Nissan label on it, and does not indicate any specifics other than the following:

5W30 oil
SM rated.
non-synthetic, with ester additive.
Recommend for use in specific applications where Ester oil is recommended.

Originally Posted by kool_yaar

MIKE: or others with info
Ok Motul V300 is a bit too much for me, am currently running RP and pretty happy, but do you think that switch to Motul 8100 5w30 would be an upgrade and better then RP protection wise, basically is 8100 a full synthetic Class IV or III, i drive SPIRITED at times but not all the time.

Thanks

300V is on the extreme end of high performance oils; 8100 is by far the more popular Motul we use here. I've tried both in the past, but I figure spending 30 extra dollars a change is worth any extra protection that I probably won't use. I think of it as getting 15/30 vs 100/300 auto insurance.