Questions on Detailing

infin1t3 · 09-23-2009, 10:27 PM

Just looking for some perspective from detailer's on a couple things.
1) When I finish up polishing and I put on the sealant. I have been waiting close to 24 hours until I put on wax over the sealant. Is it necessary to wait between the sealant and wax?
2) After you finish up a detail do you usually let water run down the vehicle then wipe it down? I've heard that it is good to do after but it ends up leaving minimal streaking and a few water marks...
3) Is using water as a lube for using a clay bar bad if you are following up with a polish? Or even if you don't polish?

Loi · 09-24-2009, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infin1t3

Just looking for some perspective from detailer's on a couple things.
1) When I finish up polishing and I put on the sealant. I have been waiting close to 24 hours until I put on wax over the sealant. Is it necessary to wait between the sealant and wax?
2) After you finish up a detail do you usually let water run down the vehicle then wipe it down? I've heard that it is good to do after but it ends up leaving minimal streaking and a few water marks...
3) Is using water as a lube for using a clay bar bad if you are following up with a polish? Or even if you don't polish?

I'm not a pro, but these questions seem simple enough.

1. A majority of sealants require a cure time of 15mins to an hour, some are longer.
2. some people using the water sheeting method to dry their car, it is not necessary.
3. Yes, using water as clay lube is a bad idea,water isn't match of a lube unless you mix an ounce of Optimum No Rinse, then it'll have the lubication ability.

swordsman54 · 09-24-2009, 12:58 AM

I have heard of people spraying some water onto a freshly waxed car and then carefully wiping it off to create a more glossy finish to your work...

By spraying water, I mean very little from a spray bottle.

Black Betty · 09-24-2009, 03:47 AM

1) 12 to 24 hours between sealant and wax to make sure it's fully cured, depends on tge product.

2) No. No reason to rinse off a freshly finished car. If there's residue or dust wipe with quick detailer.

3) Plain water isn't a good lube. Our finish is so soft that I've actually put light scratches in the finish by using too much pressure even with very good lube so be careful.

n_jay888 · 09-24-2009, 12:22 PM

Agreed with everything BB said.

Detailed Image · 09-25-2009, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infin1t3

Just looking for some perspective from detailer's on a couple things.
1) When I finish up polishing and I put on the sealant. I have been waiting close to 24 hours until I put on wax over the sealant. Is it necessary to wait between the sealant and wax?
2) After you finish up a detail do you usually let water run down the vehicle then wipe it down? I've heard that it is good to do after but it ends up leaving minimal streaking and a few water marks...
3) Is using water as a lube for using a clay bar bad if you are following up with a polish? Or even if you don't polish?

Good advice already mentioned, but I'll put my 2 cents in...

You should allow the sealant to fully cure before topping it with a wax. Unless otherwise specified on the bottle or by the manufacturer, allow for 24 hours between coats.

Some detailers opt to re-wash after polishing to help remove polishing dust before applying a glaze or protection. Some detailers will also keep a bottle of distilled water chilled and after the final coat of wax is removed, let it sit in the sun for a bit then use the chilled water and your plushest microfiber towel to buff to a streak free, high gloss finish. I wouldn't use the hose for this technique though.

Water alone as a lube is just asking for marring. I typically use a quality quick detailer or mix some Optimum No Rinse in a spray bottle as clay lube, they seem to work best.

George

riceqx2 · 09-30-2009, 05:54 PM

#2...
After you wax the car, spray cold water on the car to harden the wax.
Wax is soft, and after the wax is applied then removed, the film of wax is soft. It is a magnet for grime and air born contamination. Spraying the car w/ cold water hardens the wax. Subsequent car washes with car wash soap and cold water further harden the wax coating. If you know that you'll be washing the car in the next few days, its alright to not spray the car w/ the cold water and just enjoy driving a spotless car. But you must harden that wax.
Regarding the ' sheeting method'...when you've washed the car w/ car wash soap- (which contains silicon) and rinsed it with the spray nozzle, take the nozzle off the end of the hose and run the water over the car to 'sheet' the water over the car. The lubricants in the car wash soap cause the water to sheet off so that drying the car is much quicker.

09-23-2009, 10:27 PM	#1
infin1t3 Registered User Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 29	Questions on Detailing Just looking for some perspective from detailer's on a couple things. 1) When I finish up polishing and I put on the sealant. I have been waiting close to 24 hours until I put on wax over the sealant. Is it necessary to wait between the sealant and wax? 2) After you finish up a detail do you usually let water run down the vehicle then wipe it down? I've heard that it is good to do after but it ends up leaving minimal streaking and a few water marks... 3) Is using water as a lube for using a clay bar bad if you are following up with a polish? Or even if you don't polish?

09-24-2009, 12:58 AM	#3
swordsman54 Registered User Trader Score: (0) Join Date: May 2007 Location: VA-757, 804 Posts: 351	I have heard of people spraying some water onto a freshly waxed car and then carefully wiping it off to create a more glossy finish to your work... By spraying water, I mean very little from a spray bottle. Last edited by swordsman54; 09-24-2009 at 11:43 AM.

09-24-2009, 03:47 AM	#4
Black Betty El mero mero! 2008 Infiniti G37 Trader Score: (21) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Baytown, TX Posts: 7,194	1) 12 to 24 hours between sealant and wax to make sure it's fully cured, depends on tge product. 2) No. No reason to rinse off a freshly finished car. If there's residue or dust wipe with quick detailer. 3) Plain water isn't a good lube. Our finish is so soft that I've actually put light scratches in the finish by using too much pressure even with very good lube so be careful. __________________ Get your custom grounding kits at If Black Betty doesn't look good, I don't look good!

09-24-2009, 12:22 PM	#5
n_jay888 Acting President Of LAG's 2008 Infiniti G37 Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Northridge, CA Posts: 4,648	Agreed with everything BB said. __________________ Very Super Rare IP of LAG's l 20% Tints l LED's l 6000K D2S l GT-R Overlays & Valence l Eibachs l Hardwired Escort l JWT Pops l FI CF Exhaust & HFC's l Vossen 082's l Falken 452's l Neil's Auto Detailing supplied by Detailed Image www.TeamLAGs.com

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09-30-2009, 05:54 PM	#7
riceqx2 Registered User Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 9	#2... After you wax the car, spray cold water on the car to harden the wax. Wax is soft, and after the wax is applied then removed, the film of wax is soft. It is a magnet for grime and air born contamination. Spraying the car w/ cold water hardens the wax. Subsequent car washes with car wash soap and cold water further harden the wax coating. If you know that you'll be washing the car in the next few days, its alright to not spray the car w/ the cold water and just enjoy driving a spotless car. But you must harden that wax. Regarding the ' sheeting method'...when you've washed the car w/ car wash soap- (which contains silicon) and rinsed it with the spray nozzle, take the nozzle off the end of the hose and run the water over the car to 'sheet' the water over the car. The lubricants in the car wash soap cause the water to sheet off so that drying the car is much quicker.