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Daytime Running Lights aka DRL Set Up (US Models)

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Old 10-02-2008, 05:18 PM
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klossfam
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Daytime Running Lights aka DRL Set Up (US Models)

Thanks to Kevin at KP Technologies for his support. I'd highly recommend his products and his technical knowledge of Nismo electronics. Always check out http://www.kptechnologies.com/before you try to get too "tricky" on your own. Besides the many modules they produce, KP carries quality relays and other required parts.

This is the general set up for using a weather proof Bosch-style relay to emulate the DRL configuration used by Canadian G35s - DRLs - as most are aware - are required in Canada by law. This set up will also help Canadian buyers of US Infiniti products that need the DRL conversion done (and probably safer than having Crappy Tire try to install a DRL module). For US drivers - it also provides an add'l insurance discount in most US States for having permanent DRLs.

The following was done on my 2008 G35xS (sedan). The goal was to put the fogs in use as DRLs - yet retain all the normal headlight/fog light switch functions.

This conversion was done with a Bosch-style 5 pin weatherproof relay (weatherproof as it will be protected but still sitting underneath the IPDM in the engine compartment). KP Technologies supplied the 30A weatherproof relay with the 5 wire harness included. There are specifics that require a shop manual for the G (at least if you want it to be an hour or less of a job), but the general relay connections are:


Pin 30 (Common) – Output to both fog light wires (must cut wire). Terminate output end to fogs. Connect end from IPDM harness to relay.

Pin 87A (NC) – Fused ignition power (MAKE SURE this is a switched source not directly connected to the IPDM - the PWM relay nearby is a good choice and described below)

Pin 87 (NO) – Output from IPDM to fog lights (there are two fog outputs - Left & Right - see below for the specific wire colors)

Pin 85 (Coil +) – Parking light (+) wire or headlight (low/high). Important as this is what ultimately retains the original headlight/fog light switch functions.

Pin 86 (Coil -) - Ground (to the NEG (-) terminal on battery is usually convenient and easy to secure)


It's a good idea to install an inline fuse (15A) for the wire to Pin 87A and use Solder Seal weather proof connections (or similar) for all splices.

All switch functions will operate normally. When the headlights are on - via AUTO or turned on manually, the DRL FOGS drop out via the relay and the FOG LIGHT ON/OFF switch will work as normal.

LIGHT SWITCH IN OFF or AUTO POSITION (DAYTIME) - DRLs ON WHEN CAR IS RUNNING



LIGHT SWITCH IN ON POSITION or AUTO (IF DARK) - DRLs OFF WHEN CAR IS RUNNING and HEADLIGHTS/PARKING LIGHTS ON



LIGHT SWITCH IN ON POSITION or AUTO (IF DARK) AND FOG SWITCH ON - DRLs OFF (FOG SWITCH CONTROLS FOGS ON/OFF STATUS)



Did a quick tear down for pics. NOTE: Not sure the harness wire colors will always be the same, so I'd reference the pin numbers on the relay more so than the colors of the harness I used - these represent the harness I bought from from Kevin at KPT and colors may vary harness to harness.



After you open the cover on the IPDM, locate the small harness with the fog light wires. Cut and terminate the medium blue w/silver wire (RED CIRCLE) and cut white w/silver and connect to pin 87 (green on my harness) and GREEN CIRCLE in pic.

Connect the red w/silver wire from harness to pin 85 (white on my harness) YELLOW CIRCLE in pic.

Pin 86 is connected to the negative terminal on the battery (blue wire on my harness).

Pin 30 is for the fog light wires going to the bulbs - med blue w/ silver and white w/silver (black on my harness)

Pin 87A is for the SWITCHED power connection - I used the PWM relay located on the side of the engine compartment. See the YELLOW lined box in the pic below. (red wire on my harness)



This box was tough to get open but the location is good for a proximity to all the other connections - AND it is not powered off the IPDM which is very important. The RED oval in the pic shows the power wire with a fuse holder (15A) that we installed. This wire goes to pin 86.

We used Solder Seal connectors for a good splice and to gain weather proofing. NOTE: I'm in Western NY and snow & road salt are a way of life, so a good seal is key. Other than a little digging, it is a pretty easy job. Let me know if questions.

Last edited by klossfam; 10-03-2008 at 09:15 PM. Reason: General Update
Old 10-02-2008, 08:37 PM
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jnguyen
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interesting looks good! i personally like not having DRL but it looks good
Old 10-02-2008, 08:41 PM
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STOOF
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So when the Headlights are off or Auto Daytime, is there anyway to shut off the fogs or are they always on.

I basically just need a way to turn on my fogs without the headlights.
Old 10-03-2008, 09:54 AM
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klossfam
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STOOF - The DRLs aka fogs are on when the car is on EXCEPT when the parking lights or headlights are on (the fogs then drop out and are controlled by the fog switch as normal)...So, it doesn't do exactly what you want (this is essentially a conversion to make a US G the same as a Canadian G where DRLs are law)...HOWEVER, KP Technologies makes a Fog Light Module that will do what you want http://www.kptechnologies.com/ SEE Fog Light Controller...support@kptechnologies.com can confirm the compatibility with your G37...KPT is a great Nismo electronics source...Very knowledgeable...
Old 10-03-2008, 11:46 AM
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vinnys coupe
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Originally Posted by STOOF
So when the Headlights are off or Auto Daytime, is there anyway to shut off the fogs or are they always on.

I basically just need a way to turn on my fogs without the headlights.
stoof keep bumping my thread in DIY section. Kp tech should have it but its not going to be cheap and we would ahve to do all the re wiring. There is a simple way to do, just not sure. You cut a few wires and it works. Lexus has the same prob. if not responds here ima post up on clublexus and im sure one of them could guide me... Cars are prob built similiar..both jap cars.
Old 10-03-2008, 03:18 PM
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klossfam
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STOOF - The fog light controller module from KPT is only $44.99 - but it is set up for the G35 Coupe...KP Technologies would need to confirm that the 2008 G37 Coupe has the same wiring set (the Sedans are wired slightly different and have not been tested with the fog controller that I'm aware of). This is a project you need to be patient with and the help of a good auto electric guy will really speed the process...
Old 10-03-2008, 04:09 PM
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vinnys coupe
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i contacted KPT, not sure if they have it for the g37 yet.
Old 10-03-2008, 09:00 PM
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370GT
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Lol this isnt hard to do at all. Its the same thing i did with my maxima. Heres the DIY i made for the maxima. If anyone is willing to remove the headlights from the bumper, id gladly be able to do this.

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...lete-pics.html

Scroll down and read carefully.
Old 10-03-2008, 09:13 PM
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klossfam
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370GT - That's cool and all that..but we're talking COMPLETE fog light control - i.e. retaining the fog switch function...In my case, I wanted the fogs/DRLs on all the time (essentially I'm a believer in DRLs)...With KPTs fog controller, you have FULL fog independence - no powering off the parking lights...I didn't need that, so a $7 waterproof Bosch-style relay did the job...BTW - rounding up some yellow 9006s for the fogs/DRLs...Going to see if it JDMs my G so much that in turns into a Skyline...or maybe a GT-R!
Old 05-11-2009, 06:05 PM
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Tainui
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I'm looking for a switched power source for some electronics behind the dash. Anything from under the battery tray will be perfect because the leads are already there.

Which wires did you use for the switched power source (87A)
Old 05-11-2009, 06:43 PM
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klossfam
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Tainui - See below - this is right against the passenger side fender right by the battery. I just used a test light to determine the switched output on the PWM. I also put a 15 amp inline fuse holder (that is the RED circle) for add'l protection in this wire going to 87A...Hope that helps.

Pin 87A is for the SWITCHED power connection - I used the PWM relay located on the side of the engine compartment. See the YELLOW lined box in the pic below. (red wire on my harness)



This box was tough to get open but the location is good for a proximity to all the other connections - AND it is not powered off the IPDM which is very important.
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